Inspiration

How we see it: France

Photo of Ang Matthews and Ian Wild Eastwood in France

Ang Matthews and Ian Wild Eastwood are the couple behind coveted Northern ceramics brand Fire Station Square Pottery, which creates eye-catching, earthy homeware from its Salford kiln.

They’re perhaps better known – in Manchester at least – for their connections with the city’s music legends. Ang was the manager of famed nightclub, the Haçienda, which played a transformative role in late eighties and early nineties youth culture. Ian has long been one of the city’s leading sound engineers, working with music icons like 808 State. When he’s not at the potter’s wheel, he’s likely to be on a global tour.

Nowadays, they spend six months of the year in France and have become huge advocates for the country. Ang is also a model for French-founded fashion label Damart, which runs its UK business from Bingley, West Yorkshire.

Portal North caught up with the dynamic duo at Altrincham Market to find out more about their love affair with France.

Why did you start spending so much time in France?

It wasn’t really a grand plan. We set out on a trip 15 years ago and the only thing planned was the crossing via Le Shuttle.

We didn’t know whether we’d stay in France or drive through it but we just loved it! The food, the markets, the people and the relaxed lifestyle. Now we visit as often as possible.

We just go where the mood takes us, there’s never a planned itinerary, although Paris is always a must. Some of our other favourite cities are Nantes, which feels like the French Manchester, and Biarritz, on the border of France and Spain.

How has Brexit impacted your time in France?

Brexit really curtailed our freedom to travel. Now we can only visit France for 90 days in a 180 day period.

The cuisine is a big part of any trip to France. Any tips?

France’s varied regional food produce shapes its different cuisines and we always try and get a sense of the local flavours. We shop at local markets and eat at traditional restaurants and bistros in the different areas we visit.

In Biarritz, home to Basque cuisine, we eat regularly at the Bar du Marche, by the central food market, Les Halles. Specialities include chipirons and padrons (baby squid and peppers) for starters, followed by cassolette de moules a la plancha (casserole of pan-seared mussels).  Opposite the nearby fish market is Bar Jean, great for Merlu – a local whitefish – to share.

In both Biarritz and Nantes the markets are sensational. Nantes cuisine is Breton-influenced and there’s nothing better than a ham, cheese and egg galette washed down with a mug of cider at Au Vieux Quimper. As for Paris, what can we say. You’re spoilt for choice. A must is any of the three famous Bouillon Chartier restaurants. Join the queue about an hour before you want to eat to enjoy traditional specialities with a starting price of 1 euro per dish (yes, you read that correctly). Another unbeatable restaurant is Aux Bons Crus, the last Les Routiers in Paris, with an authentic bistro atmosphere and fabulous menu.

What about wine. What do the locals drink?

France has the best wines in the world and every region has its own specialities, so wine lovers are in for a treat. We love the dry Muscadets of Nantes, the sparkling cremants of Samur, and amazing, heady reds from Bordeaux. We always look out for wines bottled on site. Most vineyards will make you very welcome and enthusiastically show you around.

Do French culture and style play into your pottery?

Fire Station Square Pottery is influenced by English traditional earthenware and Japanese stoneware, so not in that sense, but when we’re on holiday travelling in France we’re always on the lookout for ideas.

What sort of music scenes have you found in France?

We loved the music scene in Nantes. A notable gig was Peter Hook and The Light at Stereolux. There are also lots of open air, small festivals, such as those in La Rochelle.

What’s the most unusual place you’ve stayed in?

There are several! We’ve stayed at castles, quaysides, harbours and barns. It’s not about the most glamorous places but truly immersing yourself and being open to what comes along.

France boasts incredible beaches – which are your favourites?

Of those we’ve visited, our favourite beaches are in Biarritz. Top of the list is La Cote des Basques, where we watch the surfers from the Etxola Bibi bar on the cliffs above as the sun goes down. Bliss. Another favourite is our secret hideaway Fouras-les-Bains; a quiet, sleepy village with a perfectly empty beach.

Favourite French saying?

“Plus que hier, moins que demains,” Ang replies. “It means more than yesterday, less than tomorrow. I have it engraved on a favourite piece of Vivienne Westwood jewellery.”

What don’t you travel without?

“Birkenstocks for Ang and a JBL bluetooth speaker for me,” says Ian. Quelle surprise!

To find out more, follow Fire Station Square Pottery on Instagram  

Need to know 

If you’re planning a trip to France this year, check for local events and openings. In Paris, new cultural venue Étoile Voltaire is one to visit, with five cinemas, a restaurant headed by chef Thierry Marx and a green rooftop terrace.

For something more traditional – with a dose of romantic scandal thrown in – Villa Windsor, once the home of the Duke of Windsor and his wife Wallis Simpson, reopens its doors in the spring.

Both Paris and Normandy will be celebrating the legacy of revered artist and founder of impressionism, Claude Monet, on the centenary of his passing.

And, if you’re inspired by Ang and Ian to go off the beaten track and tour a vineyard, the Mayenne region has some surprising finds. Try La Maison du Pin, also an organic farm and haven for biodiversity.

Getting there:  The choices are endless! You can fly, drive, go by ferry or take the train via London.

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